In November we had a trip to Nepal. I was last in the country around 11 years ago and had always wanted to return to the mountains after spending a month trekking in the Khumbu (Everest) region. Over the last decade the mountains have become more popular so we wanted to go somewhere a little quieter. We arranged to go and trek the Manaslu circuit which traces a loop around the 8th highest mountain in the world. It’s a restricted area so requires permits and a guide both to keep tourist numbers under control and ensure safety, especially over the high altitude pass towards the end of the trek.
It was interesting to see the changes in Nepal since I was last there. In 2015 the country was rocked by an earthquake and as you might expect, the country was ill prepared for the covid pandemic but despite the signs of the earthquake, little had changed apart from the presence of electricity and the internet. The mobile phone has become ubiquitous and masts and power lines were much more prevalent in the mountains since I was last there.
Logistically, trekking in Nepal is made easy thanks to the tea houses that are scattered along the route in all but the most remote areas. It’s basic accommodation but a bed, food, drink, a shower and electricity are all available and not much else is required when walking long distances each day. We also chose to walk up the Tsum valley, a diversion from the route that took us up to the historic monastery of Mu Gompa, close to the Tibetan border. An amazing place to spend a freezing night looking down the valley under a sky full of stars.
Photographically, I travelled light as I would need to carry everything I took which meant no big lenses. I was aware of the miles we were going to be walking each day so my priority was keeping my pack weight down. I took a 40mm pancake lens and in hindsight I probably would have been better off with one of the latest mobile phones. The 40mm is a bit restrictive so is only really the right lens for a small number of shots.
The mountains are a fantastic environment and it’s hard to take it all in with a camera. Sometimes it’s better just to stand and breath in the views.
Another interesting thing about Nepal is how climate change is, or will be, effecting the country. Nepal has such vertiginous terrain. I’m sure if it was stretched out flat it would reach well into the heart of neighbouring India and Tibet. It’s a constant battle to keep roads and trekking routes open as landslips regularly smear huge amounts of rock and mud down the sides of the mountains. As a poor country with little to spend on clear up operations, it’s easy to see how more extreme weather makes the future uncertain for some routes.
One of the biggest pleasures of returning to Nepal was to be among the people again. On my first trip I had travelled through India and crossing the border into Nepal felt like a relief. Much quieter and more laid back. It was special to meet up with old friends who’d helped me out when I volunteered at a school in Kathmandu and it was also great to meet Dafuri, our guide for the Manaslu trek who taught us about the culture and customs in the mountain villages but also filled us in on the local gossip when we wanted to know what people were chatting about!
All in all a great trip.
